Category Archives: Jam Today

Tofu Hacks.

I really love tofu. In the summer, I like it diced up and sauced gently with soy sauce and minced scallions. I like it with a bunch of its water pressed out, and then marinated in any variety of sauces (soy sauce/brown sugar/ginger/garlic/black vinegar/scallions being a favorite) and baked. But my favorite was stir fried. There’s always been one problem for me with stir fried tofu, though. It makes a hell of a mess.

Because really, what’s the point of stir frying it if you’re not going to get some kind of crispy outer layer around the velvety tofu within? Otherwise you might as well have used an easier option.

But I really loathe stir frying tofu to get that crispy outside. Oh, I did it from time to time, mainly because the lag between attempts had been so long that I had forgotten the pain of it. But I never enjoyed the process. And I wasn’t completely happy about the result, either.

You know the drill, those of you who love tofu. You weight down the tofu chunk on a bunch of paper towels, cover it with paper towels and a heavy object—in my kitchen, a marble mortar. You periodically change the soaking paper towels, turning the tofu slab over, to get it as liquid free as you can manage—never enough, in my experience. Then you cut it into manageable cubes. And you toss it in some cornstarch. And then you heat up a wok, or a frying pan, to medium high, and you toss in a handful at a time of the little white thingies and gingerly turn them over until they’re browned on all sides.

“Browned on all sides.” Hah! What usually happens is they blacken on some sides, almost brown on others, and then you get entirely sick of the whole thing, and pull them out with a couple of sides still a pallid beige. Not to mention all the bits of tofu left behind sticking to the sides of the pan.


By the time you’re through, the spatters made by the irredeemably damp tofu hitting the hot oil are all over your stove. And probably all over you, too.

This saddened me, this battle with tofu. I felt it shouldn’t, nay, couldn’t be inevitable. There had to be a better way. A détente, as it were. Especially when I found a wonderful tofu recipe in the Guardian, by Yotam Ottolenghi, which was practically my Tofu Dream come true. Wonderful sauce. Easy to throw together. EXCEPT FOR THE DAMNED BROWNING OF THE TOFU.

One day I just had had enough. The stove was a miserable mess. I was hot and way too bothered. I was going to find out a different way to get that crunchy tofu or disavow stir fried tofu forever.

This is the point at which I have to cover with praise a really fantastic food writer/blogger. Because why hadn’t I just thought of that in the first place? I mean, looking on the Internet to see if anyone else had a better way.

All I had to do was type into the search bar: how to make crispy tofu. And it popped up. The Grail. “How to Make Crispy BAKED Tofu.” Baked! My god! That’s it! BAKED.

It’s on a blog titled COOKIE + kate, and I can never be grateful enough to the mastermind behind it. Her hack, which is also in her cookbook, is so simple, so perfect, so delicious, that I can never forget the first moment I discovered it for myself.

It goes like this:

Buy extra firm tofu (though I’ve tried this with firm tofu, works fine).

Dice it BEFORE you weight it to get rid of the liquid. Why on earth I never thought of this myself, I’m sure I don’t know. It gets rid of so much more liquid this way. I just layer the diced tofu on a clean towel, cover it with another towel, lay a plate on top, with my marble mortar on top of that. I turn it once or twice, maybe changing the towels if they get too damp. An hour does it just fine. Even a half hour, this way.

Then toss the cubes with a tablespoon of olive oil, same of soy sauce or tamari, and same of arrowroot starch or cornstarch. Toss till the white powder disappears.

Finally, just spread the tofu cubes in an even layer on a cookie sheet that’s either been oiled or covered with parchment paper (the latter is Kate’s idea, and I must admit I bought some parchment paper just for this recipe and have never regretted doing so). Bake for 25 minutes.

“Boom!” she says. “Perfect tofu.” She’s not whistling Dixie here, either.

At this point, you have beautiful golden brown tofu cubes, with a lovely crunchy outside and velvety innards. Truly perfect tofu. You can do anything you like with it.

Let me suggest my own version of Ottolenghi’s “Black Pepper Tofu.” Particularly for you lovers of fiery dishes of the Asian persuasion. Most of the ingredients can be found in the local grocery store, and what can’t is at the local Asian market.


Like this (for two people with hearty appetites, for four just double quantities):

Make your tofu as above. Put aside.

To a wok or large skillet, add about a quarter cup of butter. Melt.


–6 small or 4 large shallots, thinly sliced

–2 to 3 hot fresh chillies, thinly sliced (I mix a green and two reds—remove the seeds and ribs first unless you like things REALLY hot)

–1 Tablespoons chopped fresh ginger

–8 cloves of garlic, crushed

Saute all this over low to medium heat, stirring once in awhile, until everything is soft and shiny. About fifteen minutes.

Then add:

–1 ½ Tablespoons kecap manis (sweet soy sauce)

–1 ½ Tablespoons soy sauce or tamari

–1 ½ teaspoons dark soy sauce

–1 Tablespoon white sugar

–2 to 3 Tablespoons black peppercorns, coarsely crushed in a mortar

Add the tofu to warm it through.

Stir in 4 to 6 scallions, cut into lengthwise slivers and then into segments of a couple of inches each. (Or just cut them up any way you feel like it.)

That’s it. Serve over brown rice. I recommend a cucumber salad on the side.

Fiery. Absolutely mindbendingly delicious. At first glance, it looks like a lot of work, but if you think about it for a moment, it just means you measure everything out beforehand, putting each segment in a bowl, and toss it all together in sequence. A breeze, really, if you’ve got all the ingredients to hand. And of course, if you’re missing one or two, or you don’t like one or two, just leave ‘em out. The really important thing is the tofu. And Kate has solved that for us all.

Props to her from the bottom of my heart. Really.

Bless you, Kate, wherever you might be, at whatever stove. You too, Cookie, And yum.




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I Heart Broccoli.

I love broccoli.

I know you do, too. You are like me. You love kale, cabbage, brussels sprouts, BROCCOLINI.

Yes, broccolini. The ridiculously svelte and pretentious version of broccoli. You even love that.

In which case, you feel the same way I do: while there are a million and one ways to deliciously cook said broccoli, a new way makes you just about as happy as does the discovery of a new star.

So it was with me, one issue of FOOD AND WINE. Yes, FOOD AND WINE, that magazine that is practically the broccolini of the food magazine world. The magazine that so frequently annoys me by its aspirant pretensions (does anyone in the world actually need a $500 wine cooler? does anyone in the world actually decorate their platters with authentic arctic moss? does anyone in the world…but you get the idea). Every so often I think with a sigh that I will finally give up my subscription, and stop feeling the need to a.) throw the magazine across the room, while shouting, ‘that is the stupidest thing I ever heard of’ and/or b.) call a chef friend and read, in a voice filled with disbelief, ‘this latest idiocy they’ve got trending out there’.

But then…it happens. The way it happens sometimes that the woman you swore you would never lunch with again, after she spent the whole time picking at her designer salad while telling you about her Moroccan vacation, suddenly reveals herself to be a good friend. Yes. The way sometimes after scorning broccolini as a passing fad, it gets marked down in the supermarket, and you grudgingly buy it, only to find it’s perfectly delightful steamed and covered with lemon butter.

So it was with the last issue of FOOD AND WINE. Because, bless its heart, there it was. A new way of cooking broccoli. More importantly, a new, easier, mega delicious way to cook broccoli. And broccolini, too, as I discovered on further experimentation.

Now as you know, there are many ways to cook broccoli: Steamed and served with a squeeze of lemon. Stir-fried with crushed garlic cloves and red pepper pods. Boiled till crisp and bright green, drained, and served with hollandaise. Chilled, diced, tossed with vinaigrette, and topped with chopped hard-boiled egg. Cooked in the oven for about an hour with chopped bacon and sliced onion (khaki colored, yes, I know, but oh, how yum).

I could go on.

So I thought I knew every way to cook broccoli. But this was pretentious of moi. Because this is probably my new favorite way: you heat the oven to 500 degrees, spread the broccoli on a cookie sheet, mix it with cut up red onion wedges and some olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast till done, then drizzle on browned butter mixed with capers and a bit of fish sauce. Divine.

The recipe called for broccoli crowns alone, but I always peel my broccoli stalks, cut them into little wedges, and cook with the tops. I love those stalks the best, actually. And those red onions: it would be great with them, but I usually have yellow ones in the house. The rest of it, though, was super. Super easy, super delicious.

Like this:

Heat oven to 500 degrees.

On a cookie sheet, take a whole head of broccoli, flowerets separated and stalk peeled, cut lengthwise and across to small lengths, and spread out, tossing with an onion cut into wedges, two tablespoons of olive oil (mild is best here, you can use any mild oil, come to think of it), and kosher salt and pepper (any salt is good, but F&W recommends kosher, and I agreed with them that’s best). Bake without tossing or fussing with it at all until it’s browned and tender, which takes about twenty minutes.

Meanwhile, melt a half stick of unsalted butter and cook, stirring once in awhile, over medium heat (watch it!) until it turns brown and, as they say, ‘smells nutty’. This takes about five minutes or so. When done, take it off the heat, and add (oh, joy!) a tablespoon of capers and a teaspoon of fish sauce. (Definitely take it off the heat before adding, or you’re going to have spatters of sauce all over your stove. Just sayin’.)

Pour over the broccoli and serve.

F&W recommends the broccoli be spread on a platter. But I just made some brown rice, put it into bowls, plopped the broccoli and onions on top, and poured the sauce over. We had this with cucumber salad (vinegar, soy sauce, pepper, and a little sugar atop sliced cucumbers), and it was divine.

A few nights later, I tried it with broccolini. Another success, though I have to admit I should have peeled those skinny little stalks first.

All of this goes to show: you can’t judge a food magazine by its cover. Or anyone, really.  You really can’t. You have to look at its true soul. Because true soul makes the best recipes, for broccoli and for friendship. That’s what I think, anyway.

Bon appetit!

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Ramen Hacks.

Do you know the magazine “Cook’s Country”? I love that magazine. Big format, sensible writing. I learn something new in every issue, and how many cooking mags can you say that about? I get almost all the cooking magazines on offer, just to see what’s going on, and I’m telling you, a couple of them make my heart bleed, as I imagine some young woman thinking she has to find pomegranate seeds to put on her potato salad.

“Cook’s Country,” however, can be trusted to only put pomegranate seeds where pomegranate seeds belong. And it can also be counted upon to figure out the easiest way to remove pomegranate seeds from pomegranates without turning whatever you’re wearing a beautifully splattered pink.

Useful, like I said. I almost always have a hankering to meet their young people who so enthusiastically test pie plates, figure out best ways to melt chocolate, and braise everything braiseable in sight.

This most recent issue (the Thanksgiving issue! Really? Are we there yet?), aside from being perfectly pomegranate free, actually taught me not just one, but TWO new ways to use packaged ramen.

You know ramen. By ‘ramen’ here, I am not referring to the wonderful huge bowls of soup with skinny noodles that the Japanese, and Japanese ramen restaurants here in the US, do so well. No, I’m talking about the packaged stuff that comes in individual servings with flavor packets included of allegedly six different flavors. The basic foodstuff of college students and starving artists the world over.

As an aside: I once asked my nephew why he was still living at home, long after he had graduated from college. “Aunt Tod,” he said patiently, “the only thing that costs the same as when you were young is ramen!” I had to admit he had a point there.

Now, I also have to admit to a secret love of ramen, dating back to the days of when I was a college student, and then a starving artist. Less starving when I got hold of packages of ramen, costing, I recall, about 25 cents apiece. (Ah, the days of wine and ramen, they are not long.) When I was young, I figured out about a hundred different ways to use those very filling noodles, and was thankful for whoever had invented them. (I’ll share my favorite hack at the end of this post, never fear.) Honestly, I thought I had figured out every conceivable thing to do with ramen.

But I was wrong. And “Cook’s Country” has just come up with two of the best.

The first I particularly like, since I’m a fan of One Bowl Cooking—or, as I approvingly call it in the revised and updated edition of “Jam Today,” (which just came out, by the way), “Millennial Cuisine.” Now, Cook’s Country thinks those little packets that come with ramen are too salty, and while this is a matter of taste, and I personally love those little packets (see my hack below), I can appreciate the position. So what Cecelia Jenkins, who wrote the piece, did was a great idea. She sautéed mushrooms, added chicken broth, added 3 packages of ramen noodles for four people, steamed them on one side, flipped them, steamed them with chopped broccoli on top on the other, added browned marinated pork, topped with minced scallions, and served the whole thing forth. “Serve the noodle bowls with Sriracha hot sauce,” she says, and I can’t argue with that.

You see the pattern here: sauté veggies of your choice (I’d add garlic, but then I always add garlic). Add broth of your choice, a lot if you want soup at the end, a little if want a dry noodle bowl. Steam a green veggie atop. Add a cooked protein. Garnish with your choice: minced cilantro, minced parsley, chopped scallions—that sort of thing.

But where is that little packet of sodium and mystery flavor? That one that is so enticing, even as you know it’s probably more than a bit unhealthy—but perhaps even more enticing for all of that.

Cecelia has a place for that, too. And I think it’s practically the best part of the whole article. She says: “Don’t discard the packets; you can use them to flavor freshly popped popcorn.”


Which leads me to my own personal favorite ramen hack. I wish I could say that I never do this anymore, that this is a remnant of my misspent youth, but even though I know those ramen noodles are just soaked in the oil they were originally cooked in, and even though I know those flavor packets contain…well, who knows what, but anything tasting like that can’t be good for heart health…even though it was long, long ago that I was a college student, I still, when I’m alone and blue, get out the secret packet of Top Ramen I have hidden away against just such moments. (I like the beef or pork flavors best, though my sneaking suspicion is those packets never got anywhere near an actual natural ingredient.)

This is what I do:

I boil enough water to cover a package of ramen noodles.

When the water is at full boil, I drop the noodles, without the flavor packet, in. Using chopsticks to stir, I separate the noodles for the few minutes cooking time recommended. (Meanwhile I tear open the flavor packet and hold it at the ready.)

When the noodles are done, I strain them in a colander, put them back in the pot, and THEN I ADD THE CONTENTS OF THE FLAVOR PACKET.

Stir around, decant into a large bowl (I like my noodles to be comfortable), and then sit down to eat, with—and this is important—a cruet of soy sauce and a bottle of hot sauce close to hand. Adding both of these liberally to an already salty bowl of ramen, I look around to make sure I am not being observed by my doctor, and blissfully have at it.

I have been known to lick the bowl at the end. Yes, I have been known to do that.

Usually, I eat a piece of fruit afterwards. This helps dispel some of the guilt. But not the delicious memory. Which lingers on until the next time I feel the urge to revisit one of my very earliest cooking hacks.

Bon appetit!


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And Another Thing: On Making Life Easier.

This whole ‘making life easier’ thing is counter intuitive, isn’t it? I mean, we keep being told, maybe we even keep telling ourselves, that more stuff—more technology, more equipment, more how to manuals—make things ‘better’…though ‘better’ is hardly ever defined. ‘Better’ in what way?

The only way I want my life to be ‘better’ is to have it filled to the brim, as full as I can, with deep experiences of the people and living things around me.

By ‘living things’, by the way, I also mean food. It was once a living thing. Or it should have been. If it wasn’t…no, let’s not think about that. It makes me queasy to even think about that.

So many things, so many experiences, are actually living ones. Deep ones. The kind you want to have make up your life. Who do you love? What do you love? What gives you deep satisfaction? Deep happiness?

Now, I have to say something that’s implied in all my own conversation, so I might as well just say it now, outright: If you’re going to have a joyful life, you’re going to have some suffering, too. There is just no way around that. Loved ones die. Loved experiences fall into the past, and sometimes even fall out of conscious memory. Moments are gone before you can grab them (and you shouldn’t try to grab them, because that, my dear friends, simply crushes what was good in the Moment in the first place). Everything changes. Nothing stays the same.

And yet. And yet. We seem to be a species that fears all that, like some kind of collective scaredy-cat standing at the edge of a pier thrust out into a snow melt filled lake. We don’t want to jump. Too cold. Too uncomfortable. Too bad. Don’t jump, miss out on exhilaration, and on finding a different perspective out there in the cold dunk.

So it is with life. Everything dies. Some things die to make us live—food being the most obvious example. And then we die. Something else comes after us. I do believe that. Just as after I eat a meal, and gratefully eat all those delicious sacrifices on the part of animals, vegetables, and minerals, I go out and live some more, so when I die, I will feed another phase of life, somewhere else, somehow.

I find that beautiful, actually. Terrifying, yes. But beautiful, too. And in my core, I know that the beauty and the terror are linked. I can’t have the one without the other. So I feel when I look at myself.

Which brings to my experience recently at Newark International Airport.

Wow. The airport? Perhaps you are thinking now, “How did we get to the airport?”

We got to the airport because when I was there, I saw what a lot of us hope is the future. And I didn’t like it. It didn’t make things simpler. It certainly didn’t make them pleasant. What it did make them was…inhuman. What it did was present a picture of what a singer I like—Kid Carpet—calls ‘Shiny Shiny New’.

Everything is working toward a kind of automated ‘easier for the consumer’ fiction. So now, at this airport, all of the ‘restaurants’ are bar-style seating, with each ‘consumer’ facing an IPad. Maybe you’ve seen these? You certainly have if you’ve been in a major airport recently, and probably by the time you read this, the things are everywhere.

The idea behind these things is that you can, supposedly, seamlessly order and then swipe your credit card to pay, with hardly any physical interaction with a human being, except the one who brings you your food.

Let’s ignore, for one moment, the objection that just about everyone does ignore when bubbling enthusiastically about any example of ‘modernity’—which is that these exciting new innovations very seldom work seamlessly. In fact, they break all the time. And then you’re sitting there faced, not with a wonderful portal to the future, but with a dead screen, while the server has to figure out how to adapt.

Let’s forget about that for a minute. Let’s just think for a moment about the alienating quality of eating in solitude after ordering from a machine, and taking the food from someone who you don’t exchange more than two words with.

Yeah, yeah, so I’m a Luddite. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know all that stuff about ‘every time there’s an advance, someone warns etc.’ And I won’t even question that word ‘advance’…or at least, not much.

But seriously. Air travel has gotten so ghastly, and I don’t even mean because of the miniscule seats, the lack of food service on flights, and the plastic cups they serve their wine in. Although all that makes it no picnic, too.

I don’t even mean those horrible security lines, where a complete stranger is forced to feel you up and down if you forgot you had your car keys in your pocket when you went through the detector.

No, I mean something even simpler. I mean the slow but steady removal of all human-to-human interaction. (Except, at the moment, when that poor complete stranger is forced to etc.)

It’s bad enough that all those jobs are being lost to this insane ‘system’ of trying to get the customer to do a little more work to get what they want, instead of paying the worker a little more to do it for them. That’s bad enough—it was bad enough when the young woman who poured out my hot water and slung the tea bag into it looked at me sullenly when I tried to pay, and pointed at the glossy ‘self checkout’ kiosk where another hapless victim struggled to use her credit card to buy a lousy little bag of potato chips.

I said sympathetically, ‘Having a bad day, hon?’ but she just stared at me blankly. Of course she was having a bad day. Every day was a bad day when she was standing there, not serving out food, not actually doing something useful for her fellow beings, but just being a cog in a machine meant to get people in and get people out—after separating them from their cash.

That was bad enough. But to have to sit at a computer terminal and order a meal, and then EAT THE MEAL in the company of the computer terminal? With any human being carefully pushed out of sight?

Are you kidding me? This is supposed to be modernity?

This is not simple. This is not pleasant. This is not the way I want my future to be.

If you’re the same, and you want a different world, let me support you in that. I support you in saying sympathetically, ‘Having a bad day, hon?’ when the slaves to the machine shuffle sullenly your way. I support you in refusing to travel without achieving conversation with your fellows at every step of the way.

I support you in finding ways to feed yourself that don’t involve high tech machinery. Myself, I carried some leftover Chinese food from my dinner the night before, poured into those little white cartons the restaurants give you, with extra napkins on the side. I always carry collapsible chopsticks with me, just in case of such a bounty coming my way that can be used at a later time.

I ate my Chinese food on a bank of airport chairs underneath a bank of useless former pay phones. Afterwards, a nice man with a dog sat down, too, and we talked about how the dog was a good traveler, and how much she had enjoyed Rome. Upon which a traveling flight attendant joined us, and showed us pictures on her phone of her dog. Which of course was not something she could have done on the payphone, so you see I’m not cursing technology, only the inhuman misuse of it.

Inhuman is never simple. Never. It might seem like it, but it’s a con. The human is simple. And better.

So for this Jam Today entry, my recipe is: To Eat an Apple.


First pick your apple.

This should be a good organic one. You don’t even want to know what they put on the nonorganic ones.

Then rinse it in some good water.

Polish it dry with a clean cloth.

Sit somewhere where the juice can fall freely away from your chin.

Eat slowly.


And then…go on to enjoy the rest of the day.




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Chicken Pot Pie Without the Pie

I hate waste. Hate, hate, hate it. I trust that’s clear? It has made me crazy since I was a small child at how much STUFF we throw away, unused…not just ‘stuff’, not even just usable ‘stuff’, but stuff that actually can make your life better if you treat it with respect. If I treat it with respect.

Case in point: the bones of a chicken. From any chicken dish: roasted, braised, sautéed, anything where the main event is the chicken meat, not the sauce around it. If the sauce is the main point, then presumably it has been greatly enlivened by the presence of the bones…which means dem bones didn’t go to waste. But…

Take your roast chicken. I personally love roast chicken. In all modesty, I must say I make a great roast chicken—brined with lots of garlic, then roasted to a juicy turn with a crispy skin. When I make a roast chicken, married as I am to a vegetarian, I get quite a few meals for myself out of it. A leg and a thigh for the first dinner, usually with lots of carrots roasted on the side. A cold leg and thigh for lunch the next day. A wing (or two) for a snack. The breast meat stripped off the bones, and either shredded and made into a chicken salad with cilantro and scallions (my favorite chicken salad, worth two meals wrapped in tortillas), or, my current favorite, chicken in a béchamel sauce. With peas.

“What do you use that for?” the very nice grocery clerk asked me yesterday, after she directed me to where the Wondra flour was found. Wondra flour being an especially finely milled kind of flour that immediately thickens a sauce without making it taste floury…and it never lumps. “For sauces,” I said. She looked puzzled. “What kind of sauces?” “Gravy,” I suggested, realizing what we had here was a difference in terminology.

Her brow cleared. “Ohhhhh. Gravy. I see.” Because really, a béchamel sauce is just Protestant gravy, under another name. White sauce. Veloute. It’s all just gravy.

And what gravy!

So what I do is, as I eat that roast chicken, I keep the bones. If I’m going to make chicken a la béchamel, I strip off the breast meat in large chunks and add it to a buttered casserole dish. Refrigerate while I make the broth. When I’ve got the bones all stripped of meat, I add them, what giblets and neck had been with the chicken originally, a scrubbed carrot, a scrubbed piece of celery, some sprigs of parsley, a couple of unpeeled garlic cloves, a slice of onion, some peppercorns, and a bay leaf, putting them all in a big pot, and cover them with water. I bring that to a boil and let it simmer until I can taste CHICKEN BROTH. And yes, there you have it. Chicken broth. Chicken broth that costs you a small fortune to buy, there it is, in the bones of your roast chicken. (Warning—and I will repeat this—torture chickens, of the kind made into supermarket rotisserie birds, born and bred in unspeakably awful and confining circumstances, will not provide bones that will make anything but pallid tasting water. Don’t believe me? Try it for yourself. Try to make chicken broth from a torture chicken’s carcass. Then try with one from an organic bird. Hah. There. You see? Evidence of your own taste buds.)

Once you have that broth, you can make your béchamel, or veloute, or gravy, or sauce, or whatever you want to call it—I’m not fussy about names, what I’m fussy about is taste. Essentially the same as how you make a cheese sauce for macaroni and cheese, except a.) you don’t use cheese, and b.) you can use half milk, half chicken broth…or whatever mix appeals to you that day. In other words, for a whole chicken breast: sauté four tablespoons of butter and four tablespoons of flour (I like to use Wondra, but it’s not necessary, just cook a little longer if you use regular flour). Add 2 cups of milk and or/chicken broth in whatever proportions you feel like that day. Half and half is nice. Simmer until it tastes good, about fifteen minutes for Wondra, and forty for regular flour. Salt and pepper to taste. Add a slug of sherry if you have it, and a glug of cream.

Now…mix with the chicken breast pieces in that buttered casserole. Add a handful of frozen peas, if you like. You can add some diced cooked carrot, though I usually don’t. Top with something crunchy. I use a mix of bread crumbs and parmesan cheese, but you can use toasted sliced almonds, toasted pecan pieces—you get the idea.

Bake at 350 degrees until bubbling and browned along the edges.

There you have it. The most wonderful chicken breast dish in the world (and I am usually not a fan of chicken breast). It’s great reheated the next day, and even the day after that.

Here’s another secret: it’s actually chicken pot pie without the pie.

 So much of life is making these connections, isn’t it? And then murmuring, “Eureka!” as you dig in to yet another reason that life is very worth living.

\(At the risk of being boring, let me repeat: save all the bones from your various meat meals in a bag in the freezer, and when you have enough, make a broth. Freeze that and use, oh, for all sorts of yummy things. But don’t bother using non-organic bones. Not for health reasons, though doubtless there’s something in that. Simply for taste. An animal that was raised in a factory will not taste the same as an animal that was raised on a farm. Guaranteed.)

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On Husbands, Farmers Markets, Serendipity, and Red Peppers.

My husband, bless him, loves to go to the Grower’s Market.

This was not the kind of thing I expected when I fell in love with him. Mind you, this was the kind of thing I wistfully dreamed about. But not what I thought of in relation to the Dear Husband…dear as he was and is.

But once again, damned if Fate doesn’t have surprises in store for the unwary. Fate and the surprising husband. He went to the market from time to time with me, mainly to hold the bag as it filled up with my various buys. True, he didn’t look bored, but it never occurred to me he might want to take my place.

I blame the turnip omelet. Turnip omelets can only be made successfully (and what a success!) with early spring turnips, those little white ones with the perky pale green tops. Alex loves the turnip omelets I make, particularly when I make them with fresh marjoram.

So there was this month where I was just too busy to go to the Grower’s Market. There must have been a husbandly longing for said turnip omelet. Because by Goddess, if he didn’t offer to go. Offer and come back with bags bulging with all manner of vegetable and fruit options. Mainly three—THREE!—bunches of turnips. And two marjoram plants.

After that it became (the way these things do) his job to do the Grower’s Market marketing. He would ask me what I wanted, but neither of us took that list very seriously. For one thing, you can’t predict what there will be at the market. Part of the pleasure. And another part of the pleasure is to let the buyer follow his heart.

It turned out that for me, a large part of the pleasure was seeing where his heart led him.

I had a great deal of fun looking through the bags he brought home, trying to decide what to cook with all the miscellaneous and unexpected bounty.

And it was unexpected and miscellaneous.

There was the time he brought two huge bunches of parsley (tabbouleh salad). The time he brought three bunches of carrots even though we had five pounds of them in the fridge (carrots baked in cream, leftovers into soup, carrot tops chopped and added to dog stodge). Five pounds of onions (goat cheese and onion puff pastry tart). Six enormous yellow squash (squash frittata, ratatouille). Five mashed peaches (“I thought I put them on the top of the bag,” —quick jam to fill another puff pastry tart).

This week: a pound bag of jalapenos (chile relish); another bag filled with chile peppers (rajas to be eaten with tortillas), and an enormous bag of the most enormous red bell peppers I have ever ever seen.

There must have been at least ten of them. Each and every one the size of a baby’s head.

Now here was a challenge.


What on earth was I going to do with ten red bell peppers?

The obvious starting point is to char them and peel, storing them in their own juice mixed with a little olive oil, some sliced garlic and a couple of red pepper pods. Do you ever do this? It’s the best way to store peppers of any kind; generally I do this with green bell peppers.

A bit messy, but worth it in the long run. You can just stick them all on a foil lined cookie sheet and put in a hot 450 degree oven, turning them as they blacken, or do the same but under the broiler. OR you can do what I did, which is turn the stove top grating over on the burners so they can cradle the peppers, turn on the burners and, using tongs, carefully turn the peppers till their skin is blackened.

Then toss them into a deep bowl (this can be a paper bag, but trust me, ten peppers is too much for any known paper bag), cover with a plate, and let them steam their skins loose.

When they’re cool enough to handle, push the skin off. (Don’t worry if you leave some black bits behind; they’re actually kind of aesthetic, and they add taste.) Do what Mexican cooks picturesquely call ‘castrating the chile’, which is just the way it sounds: pull the top off and deseed. As you do all this, try to collect the juice in a clean bowl, the one where you plan to store your peppers.

By the time you’ve finished with all your peppers, if you had ten like mine, you’ll probably have a lot of juice. But if you’re going to keep them (and if you’ve just made ten roasted peppers and there are only two of you in the household, this is probably what you are going to do), you want to add some olive oil, probably about a quarter cup. Sliced garlic cloves are nice. Red pepper pods too. Cover and refrigerate.

Now: you have your roasted peppers. What do you do with them?

Ah, roasted red peppers. The luxury of roasted red peppers. Let me count the ways:


–a roasted pepper sandwich is particularly nice lined with some thin sliced white onion atop a garlic mayonnaise, with a few leaves of arugula thrown in

–a roasted pepper pizza is tasty, particularly when the crust has been spread with pesto sauce and the peppers are topped with some grated jack cheese

–a ratatouille made with onions and tomatoes and zucchini is delicious with squares of roasted red pepper thrown in.

–a salad of roasted pepper strips mixed with capers, whole anchovies, and chopped Kalamata olives, tossed with a squeeze of lemon juice, is really superior


But best of all is probably Roasted Red Pepper Puree, which goes on such a variety of things I can hardly stop thinking about it: on top of humuus. On top of crackers. On top of slabs of feta. Mixed in a soup.

Here’s the nice way we had it, though. I had some pesto leftover from an exuberant basil harvest. And I was tired coming home from a day of errand running. So I cooked up some linguine, tossed it with the pesto, topped it with chilled red pepper puree, topped that generously with grated Parmesan, and served it forth.

To hear the husband, it was as if I’d spent all day in the kitchen just to make him something resembling food of the gods for his supper.

I effusively thanked him for the effusive thanks. Then reminded him from whence the red peppers had sprung. Which made him quietly pleased, which, along with being well fed, is not a bad state to have a husband in, any day of the week.



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Cold Soup (yes! that’s right! COLD SOUP).

It’s 104 degrees outside, and you feel like a wilted bunch of parsley. How to revive? How to unshrivel? How to nourish? Two words: cold soup. Yes, that’s right. Liquid refreshment that surges through the system and reminds the body that there is more to life than sitting listlessly in a darkened room. And there are so many delights to be had in the cold soup category. Gazpacho, essentially a tomato/cucumber/herb liquid salad waiting to add its Spanish verve to your day. Potato/onion/sorrel soup, what could be easier?: cook diced potatoes and onions in water till they’re falling apart, add shredded sorrel (or shredded watercress, or shredded spinach), cook till that’s done, salt/pepper, turn off the heat, add a dollop of cream, either blend or don’t, up to you, and chill…some minced chives on top before you serve. Yum.

But today I’m going to share an even easier version, one that everyone loves. You’ll thank me for this. Iced Tomato Soup. The perfect picnic soup. The perfect use, indeed perhaps the only use, for that can of condensed tomato soup lurking in your pantry. (Campbell’s Condensed Tomato Soup: Cue the “Lassie” theme song and admit your age if you get the reference.) Here’s how: Take a can of the above named soup. Dump in blender or Cuisinart. Add a can of whole plain yoghurt (Greek is best), sour cream, or a mix. A bit of grated onion or some chopped scallion. A branch of marjoram or basil is nice. A grind of pepper. Add two or three ICE CUBES. Hit the ‘blend’ button. Either serve immediately, or put in the refrigerator or a thermos to keep cold till needed. Voilà! Sip dreamily and feel spirit and body revive. There. You’re welcome.

Happy summer.


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Glamorous Camping Food OR The Day The Husband Debearded Mussels

You who know me know also that I do all the cooking in our household. That, in fact, I am even a tad nuts on the subject of not letting anyone else cook in my kitchen. This quirk led me to hardly notice that the Dear Husband’s main function around mealtime was to greatly admire and enjoy whatever was on his plate. And then, of course, doing the dishes after the eating was done.

But I did always have a slightly uneasy feeling that this was not a well-balanced state of affairs. After all, we’ve now been together as a couple for about a quarter of a century. That’s a lot of meals. I had a blast preparing them. But…but what would the Dear Husband do when I wasn’t around to prepare?

The answer over the last twenty-five years: Cheese and salsa sandwiches, with raw carrots on the side.

I did worry a little bit about his being apart from me and subsisting on his inevitable cheese and etc. So the other night when I hauled myself home from a day in town, and unpacked the groceries, to my delight, I found him watching intently.

“What are you cooking tonight?”

“Mussels. For some reason they were marked down. But I had a chat with the butcher, and we couldn’t figure out why—they’re all alive.”

“Do they have to be alive?”

“Oh yeah.”

“How can you tell?”

“If they shut up when you squeeze them. If they’re shut already (but if they don’t open when you cook them, those ones are dead, too). If they’re not cracked.”

“Okay. So what I want to know is: could they be cooked in one pot? Like if I went camping?”

I looked at him in astonishment. Was my Dear Husband actually asking me to teach him to cook mussels on a CAMPFIRE? Oh my. I breathed in and tried not to look as astonished as I felt. Or as proud. If this was what was happening, I felt my success as a wife was complete.

“Are you…are you asking me to teach you to cook things you could do while you’re camping?”

“Well. Yeah. I get kind of tired of cheese sandwiches.”

Oh. Oh. YES! (Silent high five between my spirit and myself.)

Hold back the enthusiasm, Tod. Go easy here. You don’t want to scare him.

“You know, I think that’s a great idea. If you were in a place where they had mussels on sale, they’re a great camp dinner choice. They’re easy, they’re inexpensive, they’re delicious, and you don’t even need a fork to eat them.”

“I don’t?”

“You use the shells. I’ll show you when we sit down with the finished product. But first…”

First. Here’s how to cook mussels in one pot, on the stove or…over a campfire.

Buy your mussels. About a pound is good for one hungry camper. Make sure the store has punched holes in the cellophane if the mussels are wrapped. You don’t want them smothering to death before it’s their time.

Now. Back at the campsite. If it’s easy, fill a bowl with some water and salt. Add the mussels to soak. You can use the bowl to eat them out of later. If it’s not easy, it’s not going to kill you this once to eat mussels that haven’t been rinsed off.

Chop some garlic, and some kind of onion (shallot, white, red, scallion), any kind you like. Add to the pot, in a puddle of some kind of fat (butter, oil, bacon fat, your choice). Cook on low heat until soft. If you have any spices with you that you like, you can add those now. Chile powder is a good camping spice. Smoked paprika. I like to add curry powder myself. Just a small shake is good. Or a sprinkling of thyme is nice.

If you don’t have any fat, no worries. Move on to the next instruction, and add all the above ingredients to the liquid. It will be marginally less toothsome, but this is camping, for God’s sake.

If you DO have fat, cook the above a bit more till slushy. Now add a quarter cup (I mean a quarter cup of whatever you’re drinking out of; no need to get pedantic here) of some kind of liquid. Beer. Wine. Tomato juice. Veggie broth. V-8. Clam juice. Whatever you have on hand. Cook for a moment more.

While that is happening, debeard your mussels. This is simple. Drain the mussels. Then just pull the beard off them and toss the cleaned mussels into the pot. If you can, turn the heat up a bit, but no worries if you’re only on one kind of heat.

Cover the pot. Shake it from time to time to help the shellfish cook evenly. If you have any parsley or cilantro on you, now is the time to chop.

Open the lid cautiously. Are the mussels all open? (If almost all are WIDE open, but one or two aren’t, discard the unopened ones without eating. But be careful—sometimes a mussel is more stubborn than its fellows, and those tend to be the most delicious of all.) IF they are, take the pot off the heat, scatter the parsley if you have it, pour them into your bowl, and have at it, preferably with a bit of bread or tortilla to mop up the juice.

If you don’t have bread or a tortilla, just lift the bowl and drink the juice down straight. After all, if you can’t behave like that when you’re camping, what’s the point of camping at all?

And—as I showed the Dear Husband at dinner that night—you can use the shells themselves as little tongs to pull the mussels out of their shells, conveying them mouthward.

Really. Mussels are ideal camping food. And I never would have known if he hadn’t thought of it. Which is why we’re a great team. Now I have to plot what to teach him next…scrambled eggs with smoked salmon is what I’m thinking, hhhhhmmmmm…







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There’s No Place Like Home.

I firmly believe that everyone has a home, a place where they feel they belong—and if they don’t have such a place, they should, they need one. Where I feel at home won’t be the same as where you do, nor should it. Just think how crowded if we all felt the same way! Having a home that you know and love is just about the best thing a human being can earn, after a partner and a family and some kind of work that brings out the best in you.

So when I count my blessings, I start (after my partner and my family and my work that I find absorbing day after day) with my home. I’ve lived in many different places over the years, many different countries, many different towns, many different kinds of places…but home has stayed the same for a good long part of my life. And that is the Pacific Northwest, or as some of us fondly refer to it, Cascadia.

When I came home this time, after years of commuting back and forth hundreds of miles to an undeniably lovely and hospitable spot whose only defect was that it wasn’t home, I felt as if my feet were more firmly on the ground than they’d been in years. I could breathe again. I could hear stories of new possibilities in the wind through the trees. (That last is no hyperbole by the way, just simple fact. Try it, next time you find yourself alone in a wood.) I set out, delighted, to reconnect with my neighbors. And to connect with neighbors I had yet to meet.

One of these connections which I delightedly made was with the food editor of our local newspaper, the Medford Mail Tribune. I’d idly read her posts on and off from far away, and thought with a touch of homesickness, of how she was foraging in my home markets. I noticed when she foraged, she found similar opportunities to the ones I would have seized upon myself. Her recipes, in short, showed we had a lot in common.

This had happened a few times before. When Gourmet magazine was still going, I used to clip a recipe or two out of every issue. One day I noticed that every single recipe I clipped—every single one—was by the same food editor. So I sent her a copy of Jam Today, and now, you know, we are very good friends. We meet up every time I’m in New York, and indulge together in a mutual love of garlic laden Chinese food. We never stop talking the whole time. Mostly about food. But about a lot of other, related, things as well. Because the people I have the most in common with know that food is just one of the ways, albeit one of the most important ways, that we have of expressing the fact that we are human. And that we are human together.

Remembering this, I sent the food editor of the Mail Tribune a copy of Jam Today Too. And sure enough, it turns out we do have shared food values—and maybe even more. For example, take frittata. Anyone who knows me, knows I love a good egg dish. They’re all over the Jam Today series, all over. And honestly, I thought I knew every single egg dish there was on offer. But here, today (June 22), in this blog post by Sarah Lemon (and if that isn’t a great name for a food editor, I don’t know what is), is an egg dish I have not only never heard of but am dying to try. How often does that happen, I ask you.

Mashed potatoes, herbs, and eggs. ‘Fresh Herb Kuku’ it’s called. Yes, indeed, I am going to make this one pronto. And if I’m going to gild the lily (which I suspect I am), I may add a bowl of garlic mayonnaise, aka aioli, to the table to be dipped into at will and used to anoint said frittata. I think that would be very nice indeed. And then maybe I’ll use a trick I discovered about how to easily make a salad on the side. I’ve mentioned this in both the Jam Todays, I think. First you make your garlic mayonnaise in a food processor, then scrape it out into a bowl. But wait! There’s still lots of the unctuous stuff clinging to the sides of the processor bowl, not to mention the blades. Don’t worry, there will be no waste (and there probably wouldn’t be if you have someone in house who wants to lick the bowl, either…but that is a slightly more dangerous option, those food processor blades being sharp as they are).

What I used to religiously do was add chunks of cabbage to the bowl, and then process. It turned out there was just enough aioli clinging to the sides to mix with the cabbage to make a fresh tasting salad for the side of whatever else I had going.

Then the other night, I made an aioli to go with a Spanish style rice dish. But no cabbage in sight—it had all gone into a tuna salad the night before. I was just going to make a green salad, when, looking in the vegetable drawer, I had a mild brain wave. Why not make this salad with carrots? So I peeled some, chunked them up, threw them in, and processed.

It tasted fine, but it looked a little pallid. I wanted something green in there. That was when I remembered I had a huge bag of sorrel, which grows like a weed in the Indigo Ray’s garden, and which no one around here but Indigo and I ever pick (can’t imagine why, it makes fantastic lemony tasting soup). So I threw some of that in and pulsed. Beautiful orange and green flecked salad resulted. And the taste! My! Lemony and garlicky and sweet and fresh all at once.

I highly recommend it. In fact, I would recommend you seek out some sorrel to make just this dish. And if there’s anything I think it would go superbly well beside, well, it would have to be the Fresh Herb Kuku that Sarah Lemon so wonderfully revealed to me today.

It’s good to be home. Yes, indeed.





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My Chicken Soup That Cures.

It happens. I got a cold and it just kept going, forcing me to cough and hack and wake up in the morning wondering if I could even remember what it was like to get up without feeling like I was choking. This went on for months, sometimes fading back, but then coming slamming in every time there was a little stress…or, face it, even a lot of stress. Because that’s the recipe for a cold that lasts for months: a vicious little virus meeting up with me at a particularly rocky part of the road forward.

Did I let it get me down? Well, maybe some days. Other days, though, I picked myself up and scolded myself, arguing that I’m supposed to be a glass is half full sort of a person, which, really, is the only kind of person to be these days, when the glass is constantly under threat.

No, I was determined not to let it get me down, not even in the FIFTH month of the foul thing, not even when the ‘regular’ doctors prescribed antibiotics which did just about nothing except mess with my usually stellar digestion.

What did I do instead? I did what a more tuned-in doctor sympathetically suggested, of course (thank you, Dr. Deborah Gordon). I took vitamins. I tried to get more sleep. I treated myself a little more gently than usual. Tried to, anyway.

And I made, for myself, at Dr. Deborah’s request, an enormous vat of deeply golden, steaming, unctuous CHICKEN SOUP.

Here’s how. (With some missteps at the beginning.)

Of course the first step, and misstep in my case, is: buy your chicken. This is very important, the way you choose your chicken. Stressed as I was, and not really thinking the way I might have been had I felt calmer and more at home in a body that wasn’t spending all its off time hacking and sniffling, I probably wouldn’t have been fooled by the label ‘Simple Truth farm fresh Chicken’, which is the kind of name corporations give things when they WANT to fool you into thinking they, and their products, are your Friend. I hate that. I absolutely hate that they want me to think they are my Friend.

Let me tell you, that chicken was not made in a friendly way. Either to me or the chicken.

I roasted it, and immediately saw my error, cursing my stupidity as I watched water flow out of it and pool at the bottom of the roasting pan. This is the added evil of the nonorganic chicken. Of course the Original Sin of said nonorganic bird is how the poor little lorn thing was treated in the first place, while it was alive (if we can call it that). Add to that the disgusting habit factory farms have of pumping chicken corpses full of liquid to make them look plumper, more appealing to the poor harried, stupidly unthinking shopper.

It made crummy soup, too, that bird. Didn’t even start to touch the underlying misery from which the months long sniffles sprang.

I cursed myself. My own fault. How can you cure yourself by adding mightily to the misery of another being? Of course you can’t.

Now you vegetarians among you are thinking to yourselves (or saying, depending on how outraged and/or smug you are feeling), why don’t you just make some vegetable broth, for Goddess sake? But vegetable broth does not have the same magic powers as chicken soup. Vegetable broth is the earnest, scrubbed, healthful, athletic student whose skin always glowed and who always helped the teacher put away the equipment after gym class.

But a good chicken soup, deep and fulfilling, is like the older kid who babysat you when you were sick, and laughed at your jokes, letting you have sip of her beer, who listened to your childish prattle and shared just enough funny stories to make you feel good, and not like you weren’t adult enough to join in the conversation. The kind of person who made you feel better just being there.

I trust that’s clear? It was chicken soup I needed, NOT vegetable broth. I like vegetable broth. But this was serious. I’d been sick since September, and here it was March.

So then I got serious.

I made real chicken soup.

And yes, it made me feel better. It made me feel a lot better.

Here was how:

First I bought my chicken. This time I did not mess around, but picked out a good, plump, organic free range bird. The hell with the price. Whatever that chicken cost was a lot less than months of antibiotics and cough syrup made with codeine.

Then I roasted it. Yes, that’s right. This is not a mistake with your real, organic, well treated bird. You can eat all the meat at a separate meal. BUT…and this is an important BUT…you must SAVE THE BONES. And any uneaten scrap. And, of course, the neck and the heart and the giblets, too.

In fact, start with the neck and the heart and the giblets too. Add them to a pot with a scrubbed organic carrot, a scraped organic stalk of celery, a handful of washed unpeeled organic garlic cloves, a sprig or two of organic parsley, a washed organic onion cut in half. Do you like thyme? I do. If so, add a sprig or two of that.

Cover with water, bring to a boil, skim the scum (feed that to the dog), turn it down to a murmur and let it go till after your bird is roasted.

Eat your roasted bird (some day I’ll share my recipe for this; a brined bird is my favorite right now). As you have bones in front of you instead of meat, toss said bones into the pot.

If you’re going to eat leftover chicken for a few days, as I do in my house where the husband is a vegetarian, put the pot in the refrigerator. As you have cold chicken for breakfast or lunch (highly recommended), toss the bones into the pot.

When the carcass is stripped, put all the bones in the pot. Put it back on the stove. Bring it back to a boil, repeat skimming, simmer for an hour or so, however long you want until it smells golden and like it might do something for a cold. Yes. It should be smelling pretty darn good, if you are a chicken soup aficionado, by this time.

Strain it. Feed the veggies, the heart, the gizzard, and any meat left clinging to the neck, imbued with chicken goodness, to the dog. Just watching how happy the dog is made should help toward curing the endless cold. Throw the bones away, or compost them if possible.

Now you should be left with a pot of golden, deep smelling goodness. Thank the chicken. Thank the people who raised and killed the chicken.

Now set about making your soup.

You can do this a number of ways.

You can

–boil the broth, add a touch of soy sauce and a hit of sesame oil, stir in an egg or two, top with chopped scallions, and breathe in the goodness of a real Eggdrop Soup

–add vegetables at will, chopped carrot and celery and mushroom, a bit more onion, finish off with a dollop of butter, and drink, in bed, from a wide mouthed pitcher

–add cooked noodles, or cooked rice, let them soak up some chicken goodness, and spoon at will.

Or you can do it my favorite way.

Onion and Garlic Chicken Soup that Cures

Take as many organic onions as you like. Slice thinly. Sweat in butter as long as you like, letting them get deep brown without burning.

Mince as much garlic as you think you need to frighten your cold back to wherever it came from.

Add them both to the simmering broth. Salt to taste.

Meld together until it smells the way you want it to smell in order to comfort you and make you sleep peacefully for the first time in weeks without having to dose your poor body with cough syrup.

Add it to a DEEP BOWL. This should be a pretty bowl, one that has always been a comfort in times of need. Add a little pepper from a pepper mill.

Sit there, inhaling the scent of the garlic and the onions and the chicken broth. The total should be far greater than the parts separately.

Spoon it up. Drink deep. Inhale the steam as you do (very important). Feel it soak into every one of your up-till-now sickly pores. Feel the health of it restoring you to balance and calm.

Sleep well. Get over that damn cold. And face the inevitable stresses of life with renewed joie de vivre.

Thank the chicken. (Thank Dr. Deborah.) And make a silent note to yourself never to buy anything labeled ‘Simple Truth’ ever again, never ever ever, in this life or in any lives you may have to come.

Postscript: Since writing this, I have made the acquaintance of the wonderful Conner Middelmann-Whitney, who wrote the anti-cancer diet cookbook Zest for Life. The book is terrific. Delicious recipes and Good For You without being smugly pious, as so many of these books are. If you’re looking for some great new ways to deal with ingredients like turmeric, mackerel, sardines, and veggies of all kinds, Conner’s book is for you. I read it straight through myself, and immediately tried her way of cooking spinach. AND IT WAS MUCH BETTER THAN MY OWN. Thanks, Conner.

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